I did replace the first outlet in the branch with a GFI outlet with no ground and it seems to work but when I put a second GFI outlet next down the series it does not work, nor do any outlets beyond it down the circuit. So I am assuming a 2nd GFI will not work linked behind a first one but if I can just use that bare wire to ground I can can replace all of them with plain non gfi grounded outlets. I assumed these were grounded and installed a couple of 3-prong outlets where I needed them the most using the bare wire as a ground.
I am one of those annoying do it yourself homeowners. I am rewiring my house. I am trying to replace that old nasty silver 2 wire with 12 gauge. I have been pretty successful up to this point. I am now rewiring the living room. It is a ranch home with a hip roof.
This is where the stupid annoying do it yourselfer comes in. All of the circuit now has new 12 gauge and is grounded except for those last 2 receptacles. What is the proper procedure for these last 2 receptacles. Jovet, you are absolutely right. Thanks, sometimes tough feedback is just what the doctor ordered.
Remove the baseboard along that wall and cut the drywall at the bottom inches. Then drill the studs and pull your new wire. Old wire can be cut off at the sheathing and left in place. I took out an ancient GFCI from my bathroom after trying to plug a snajke into it and when the tip of the snake hit the cast iron toilet flange it sparked like a welding rod.
Switched to another outlet. Not sure what happened but pulled out the old GFCI and replace it. Originally there was a metal box in there but I switched that about 5 years ago. Anyway, put in a new GFCI and the wires were weird… or to me weird. There was a hot red, hot black and neutral and ground… so easy uh? No matter how I hooked it up.. I hooked to two hots on the line side, the neutral on the opposite side, and the existing ground to the ground …. Tried the ground several different times but still showed open ground.
Am I still safe using that outlet in the bathroom? Would appreciate some advise. Still confused about the two hots coming from the line side.. Thanks, Brad. You would have to check where those cables end up to see if and how the ground wires are hooked up. We bought a house, knowing that the 3-prong outlets were ungrounded; our inspector did a very thorough job and tested every outlet.
I hate further complicate this discussion but there are already code requirements in many municipalities that require arc-fault protective outlets or breakers to be installed in all circuits in bedrooms in residences. Some areas require them in other rooms as well. These are caused when objects like draperies, bedding, toys, etc. You really need a licensed electrician who is aware not only of the codes that affect local installations but who understands what is and is not a safe practice.
Unfortunately, due to the inconsistent licensing and inspection practices around the country, especially in small town and rural areas, it may not be easy to get good advice or qualified workmen.
Before I was retired I was a licensed electrician and certified electrical inspector — the ignorance even among my peers in the trade was scary. One of the prior commenters is correct: BX metal armored cable is NOT considered a viable path to ground and should not be used for chassis grounding. Rigid metal conduits, like EMT, used with metal boxes, does meet the qualifications. BX cable is too generic a term.
The armor on type AC armored cable has a bare aluminum jacket bonding wire is an acceptable ground path however, the armor on type MC metal clad cable is generally not an acceptable ground path unless listed specifically by UL such as Type MCAP that has an interlocked armor tested to be part of the grounding path along with a bare aluminum conductor which is in contact with armor continuously to form the entire ground path.
Usually plain MC cable includes a separate insulated ground conductor which is intended to be the ground path, not the armor jacket. Post by Tephras » Sat Aug 11, pm. Post by Bories36 » Sat Aug 11, pm. Post by Bluefront » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by Firetech » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by Bories36 » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by spookmineer » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by Trekmeister » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by NeilBlanchard » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by NyteOwl » Sun Aug 12, am. Post by Bluefront » Sun Aug 12, pm.
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Quick links. My outlets aren't grounded, how bad is this? Our "pub" where you can post about things completely Off Topic or about non-silent PC issues.
Post by lowsat » Sat Aug 11, pm I just had an electrician come through due to an unrelated issue and he revealed that all but one of the outlets in my apartment don't have a working ground. This includes the one I have had my computer and some recording gear plugged into for the past 6 months some of it 1 year.
How bad is this? Or since it didn't explode right away am I pretty much ok? All advice is welcome. Or if you know any links that talk about this more in depth that would be great. Post by aaa » Sat Aug 11, pm It's more of a fire hazard I would think. I've had computers zap me when they weren't grounded as well.
Last edited by aaa on Sun Aug 12, am, edited 1 time in total. Re: My outlets aren't grounded, how bad is this? Post by Firetech » Sat Aug 11, pm lowsat wrote: How bad is this? Post by NyteOwl » Sat Aug 11, pm Note that to operate properly any surge protectors power bars, ups, etc require a proper functioning ground. Any warraty they may have to replace attached equipment if they fail is void if they aren't properly grounded. Simialrly a proper ground is necessary for safe operation of many items.
As said above, my first priority would be my own safety. Time for a chat with the landlord. Post by Tephras » Sat Aug 11, pm Or if you know any links that talk about this more in depth that would be great.
Just don't use any expensive electronics during a lighting storm, have them unplugged. Post by Bluefront » Sun Aug 12, am Ok They are cheap If you are stuck with un-grounded outlets Polarized plugs have two different sized slots, the neutral is the larger slot, this allows for a device to be plugged in, in only one manner insuring correct polarity.
Reversed polarity is when the common and hot wire is reversed on the receptacle; when this occurs the large blade receptacle is now hot rather than neutral this applies to both grounded and non grounded systems. In this instance when changing the bulb or touching the exterior of the socket the individual can be shocked.
Reverse polarity is a safety issue and can cause problems with high-end appliances. Reversed polarity is usually simple to repair. Quite often, if multiple receptacles check for reverse polarity it is not uncommon for only one wiring termination to be incorrect.
However this can not be determined without further investigation. Most home owners are familiar with these as the receptacle with the little buttons test and reset buttons that seem to always trip when using the hair dryer.
GFCI Outlet. The GFCI does not trip by detection of amperage like a circuit breaker, and in tern, a standard breaker does not trip under the same circumstances that a GFCI will trip. A three-bulb receptacle tester is most commonly used during a home inspection to determine if receptacles are wired properly.
This device is readily available at most hardware stores and can be used by a homeowner normally. The use of this device alone is not a replacement of the services of a qualified electrician. Michael is licensed in Kentucky and Indiana and qualified to perform inspections in Ohio Ohio does not have a licensing requirement.
Michael started AA Home Inspection LLC in , prior to this Michael had worked for firms providing a wide range of services including design, construction, and project management.
The Greater Cincinnati area provides a wide variety of inspections; from the million dollar properties to the fixer upper homes, new construction to homes well over one hundred years old and clients from the well established to the first time homebuyers. Grounded vs.
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